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... me, the ground was stable, but when surfing, the water surface was constantly flowing. It is not an easy thing to stabilize the center of gravity.
But sit on the surfboard and wait for the wave to come, start paddling, feel the power of the sea water pushing the surfboard, feel the extremely fast current under the waves, feel the sea itself standing up from the surfboard, a feeling of freedom spontaneously pregnancy!
However, he couldn't control his body in the next second and f ...
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